: Apologies if this is one of those regular questions (I did try the 'search'
: first..)

: I'm getting my thoughts organised for building my first strip kayak. Due to
: the cost, and obscurity of supply of bead and cove router bits here(New
: Zealand), I'm planning to bevel the strips. Yes, I've seen the
: conventional wisdom that suggests using B&C on the first boat, but I'm up
: for the challenge..(I think..) I'm also keen to go the stapleless route,
: and maybe try out the fishing line technique - and failing that, maybe
: some hot-glue.

: From what I've read on this forum already, it seems that getting bevels right
: is an aquired art, and an apprentice like me will probably end up with
: some unsightly gluelines once all is faired.

: So, I have a couple of questions for the resident experts: 1: What glue to
: use between the strips - given that all will be sealed and watertight
: under the epoxy, is something like a waterbased aliphatic PVA suitable for
: the job, or is there something better that I should look at?

: 2: Given that my first boat-load of bevels are likely to be of less than
: perfect precision, would mixing some wood flour into the glue at the start
: be a viable option to disguise the gluelines? Or would that weaken the
: join too much?

Hi Simeon,

good to hear anotKer kiwi building a stripper. I am too, here in Christchurch.

I have played about with several glue systems for wood and have used Selleys Aquadhere for the strongback and horses for a Cape Ann double. Very strong, clear when set and gap filling up to about .5mm. Sawdust filler with glue is likely to be tedious and slow you down lots at the stripping stage I think. Fill significant gaps later. Cleaning off excess glue scrupulousy with a damp cloth on the inside and outside will pay greater dividends than trying to achieve a gap free hull by filling at gluing stage. From experience with other projects dry fitting to achieve a good fit 1st time will also reward you well. Plane fit plane fit...then fit and glue.

If you change your mind about routing B&C there is a NZ kayak building forum. I have finished routing strips using a cheap chinese router table. After initial teething problems with set up (50% my inexperience, 50% cheap tool)and it took about 18 hours by myself to do enough B&C for a boat and a half. I'm happy to share.

I have used paulownia,some grown in own garden,some bought & very light and very cheap compared to American cedar, and some NZ cedar, libocedrus bidwillii or kaikawaka, which hass machined beautifully.

Have fun. Mike