Continued from previous post :

Some glues require a considerable amount of pressure in order to set up. We don't use them as much for boatbuilding because epoxy is so available. But lots of carpenters have these glues and are familiar with them. Usually they work as well as epoxy, particularly if the joint will be covered with fiberglass on both sides--and they may cost less.
White glues, such as Elmer's Glue, and most of the yellow glues in the "titebond" family work better with the same higher pressure you would use with the Gorilla glue. Not for the same reason, though. With these glues you want a small amount of squeeze out to ensure the glue is well distributed. Scrape or sand this off after it s hard.
Resourcinol glues are waterproof -- perhaps the most waterproof glues around--and strong. Also expensive and not so commonly available. Strong, even, pressure-- in the same range as that used for the gorilla glues--gives a thin, neat, line of glue color at the seam.

Hide glues and such glues as are heated before application go on thin and need pressure to keep the joint closed while they cool and harden. These may set up quickly, so you'll need to use clamps, or weights you can put in place in a hurry. These kinds of glues may not be practical for a beginner gluing entire 4-foot-long seams, but people familiar with the materials should have few problems. . Some of these have excellent properties when wet and won't dissolve unless you boil them. Again, covering the joint with fiberglass on both sides eliminates this concern.

The superglues (cyano-acrylates) are rarely used for scarfs, but, again, fast work and very high pressure gives a very quick-curing joint.

Probably quite a few other glues out there. Generally, check the label for pressure requirements and do a sample with some scrap wood first to get familiar with the materials before commiting to using them on the main project.

Hope this helps.

PGJ