Hi Will

The inserts I used were thick walled plastic tube like you can get in hardware stores. I put greased electrical cable inside the clear tube to keep it from collapsing. After the epoxy set I pulled out the cable which came out easily and then pulled out the clear tube which never comes out easy. I've done >40 of these fittings now and every time I go to extract the clear tube it is a scary fight. I've never had one break off inside the fitting but I've often wondered if it was going to happen. I always grease them with Vaseline but I never like to use very much for fear of contaminating the epoxy. If you are going to use glue sticks for inserts I'd suggest trying a practise one on a piece of scrap because I would worry about it breaking when you try to pull it out.
As well as using less epoxy to build the fitting, this method gives you an under-deck fitting you can use to attach hatch leashes or whatever inside the boat.

Ric

: Hey Ric, This is terrific, thanks

: Your solution saves a couple of steps. Holes can be drilled first
: and Maroske-fittings sized as needed. No molds (except the
: insert).
: I'm guessing the inserts you used are deck line, wrapped in
: electrical tape, polyethylene tubing..

: Poly tubing seems to always want to kink. I'm betting the glue
: sticks, if they don't get stuck, will turn out to be a better
: solution.
: They make really tight bends, do not kink or flatten, smooth
: surface and is stretchy enough that it should pull right out.

: (While waiting for the sleeve to arrive, I should wax up a glue
: stick, wrap some fiberglass around it and see if my expectations
: work).

: Just ordered 20' of 1/2 fiberglass sleeve. $16 with shipping.
: Link to the Solar Composites carbon fiber and fiberglass sleeves
: page:

:
: http://www.solarcomposites.com/composites/carbon%20fiber%20sleeves.html

: Will