This is the trick that I use and it works absolutly terrific. On my work table, which is just a sheet of particle board, I have drawn some parallel lines 4 inches apart. I have drawn these lines at a 45 degree angle. I then tape down plastic wrap over the these lines. I usually have to overlap several pieces to get desired width. I then scrounge through my scap pieces of glass and find a suitable piece and make sure to have the weave squared with my work top. I then pour and spread epoxy over glass. Since I have reference lines drawn on the table, I don't have worry about wetting out the cloth all the way from edge to edge. While the epoxy is soaking into the cloth, I will "paint" epoxy around the coaming area to be glassed. (note previous advice about needing a fillet for the inside curves). I then take some more plastic wrap and place it over the top of the epoxy soaked glass and use the sqeegee to over the top to move all excess epoxy out of the areas which I am going to cut out. I then use one of the wheel type razor blade cutters and cut out the strips on my 45 degree lines. I can then pick up the strips of wetted out bias cut tape, peel off the plastic from one side, and pat it into place.

The beauty of doing it this way is that you avoid frayed edges and avoid dripping epoxy all over the place.

As you push the cloth in place, peel off the outer layer of plastic wrap so the cloth can make the curves more easily.

I find it easiest to do strips in lengths of approx. 15 to 20 inches long. Just overlap the ends of the next piece to the previous as you move around the caoming.

I use the same technique for wetting out multiple layers of glass for my hatch lips. I put the hatch template on my work table and cover with plastic wrap followed by multiple layers of glass, wet it out, then cut out with razor wheel about 1 to 2 inches outside of my hatch template.

hope this helps

Tom

Tom