Looks kind of short. Shortness has a certain panach right now but not among paddlers who want to go any distance.
Paddleboats that are designed for racing are ALWAYS built as close to maximum length the rules will allow. Length gives the boat better speed and also the better glide. Accepting a bit of increased weight to gain more waterline length is a trade off most designers would accept unless they were building a boat for a child. For most paddlers speed isn't important but glide is. Your 11 foot SOF would be hard pressed to keep up with a 16 foot boat over a multiple-mile, flat-water paddle.
Whatever advantage the 11 lb. weight gives you on land becomes a loser once the boat is in the water. Unless you confine your paddles to small water or always hve a current at your back the lack of waterline length will always require more effort from the paddler than a boat of more conventional length.

: Just tested out my new canoe, its a temporary boat, the plan is to section it
: and turn it into a folder, but before I went to all that work I wanted to
: see if the hull was right, and the parts strong enough.

: The frame is constructed of western red cedar, with plywood cross sections.
: The plywood is also temporary, I am planning to gluelam the final ribs out
: of veneer strips.

: Frame weight is 10 lbs, including the plywood cross sections (which I think
: are about 2 lbs).

: The lumber is about as cut down as I dared, 1.5"x0.75" gunwales,
: stringers are 0.75"x0.5", and keel stringer is
: 1"x0.75".

: Overall dimensions are 11' x 27", and the design is my own, though
: really I just built something that looked canoe like.

: All in all it feels pretty strong. It sits with the keel hogged on land, but
: straightens out when you sit in it. I think I am going to cut some up
: sized hull stringers, the current ones flex a little too much.

: Has anyone had experience with how red cedar this thin holds up? Or is this a
: little too light?